Able Tasman

Able Tasman-

I had the chance to finally slow down a bit and catch my breath in Able Tasman National Park. Able Tasman is at the northern end of the South Island and is by most accounts the most beautiful coastal area in the country. I had a full day before my hike where I did some very cruzy sea kayaking and sailing around the bays and seal colony islands in the marine reserve.

So far in my first 2 overnight backpacking treks I’ve shaved an average of about 30% off the projected time spent on the trail. By no means do I consider myself a fast hiker either. I kind of like to do it like Adam Sandler, at a medium pace. Nevertheless I found myself just having a natural urge to skip a hut here, power through there and started to pile up double digit hour days on the trails. For the Tasman I forced myself to slooooow dooooown a bit and take it all in. The 3 day trail, which hugged the coast the entire way, was stunning with amazing little secluded bay beaches to stop at, a few stream fed fresh water swimming holes and some, water to your knees, tidal crossings. I stayed pretty close to the projected walking times and only did about 5 hours a day. The rest of the time swimming, hanging on the beach, shooting the shit and even sleeping in a bit.

On the ferry ride to the trailhead I met a mixed group (Dutch girl, Swiss girls and 2 Israeli guys) that were headed my way. On the ride over they told me the woman at the info center took their map and made a big red X across the campsite I booked because of a “yet to be attended to rat problem”… I told them I’ll check it out first, but for them not to be surprised if I end up moving to their campground after spotting a few rats. Sure enough while setting up my tent 2 small mice go scurrying right across where I’m at. With no shame or reluctance I rolled my tent back up and met up with the foursome 15 minutes up the trail and they all graciously welcomed me as the 5th member of the Able Tasman wolf pack. Shortly after setting up my tent (varmint free) a group of 3 American students joined the campground and the 8 of us sat on the beach through sunset into the night talking nonsense and laughing like old friends. The girls invited me to sleep under the stars on the beach with them which is a hard thing to refuse. As a bit of irony one of the girls got too cold at some point and returned to the group tent where she neglected to close the zipper. Her and the two Israeli guys had the company of a mouse INSIDE their tent and eating their chocolate chip wafers all night. As for me I slept like a baby and woke up outside to the rising sun and a morning dip in the ocean.

I met up with the wolf pack 2 days later at a bar just outside the park and, with no concrete plans, rode along with them to the town of Nelson where the girls and I stayed. After Chinese takeout and some local craft beer tasting the three of us returned to our hostel to randomly find the 3 American students from the trail staying there as well (not close to the trail, not even same town.) One of them had already made friends with the resident hippie and at one point we fit 8 people inside a 3 man tent for a session. Again we stayed up late into the night telling jokes shooting the shit. I haven’t laughed as hard in months as I did over that 3 day stretch, which is the money can’t buy happiness that nothing beats.

Bob