In a van down by the ocean

In a van down by the ocean-

I had been weighing my transportation options while in NZ and was leaning towards purchasing a car of my own and selling it when I left, as is popular in the backpacker community here. With only 6 allotted weeks, however, I decided it would be more trouble than its worth, especially because half of my time will be going on wilderness hikes, in which case I would still need to get back to my car somehow when done with the trail. The next option would be rental cars or camper vans which are ideal if it weren’t for the hefty price tag. Third is the bus option. There are 3 or 4 companies here that sell “hop on hop off” packages and you get a certain number of days depending on the route and package you choose to move around the country at your pace. I had a few days to explore the Northern Bays and beaches before going on my first hike. I began to research and found a 50% off special for a camper van and booked me a reservation. With my GPS plugged in ($10 option per day times 4 days) I attempt to leave the city and head north. After the friendly and charming GPS lady with the endeering British accent sent me on a scavenger hunt, making several recalculations and U-turns, an hour later I end up back at the rental depot exactly where I started. I unplugged the stupid snobby bitch and never heard from her again for the next 4 days. With her stupid accent.

My first stop I came upon an unbelievably stunning and completely secluded beach. Because it had a 24 hour public toilet near by I was able to park my van free of charge in a parking lot 50 feet from the shore. I was amazed that not one other camper van parked, nor did another soul stumble upon the beach the whole time I was there. I went for a good long ocean swim and threw in some body surfing. As I was coming out I stood on the water line in appreciation of finding the peace and beauty I’m traveling for. I catch myself wondering how simple pleasures such as these will stack up when the trip is over. In the houses on the distant hilltops I could only imagine the chuckles from someone watching with binoculars as I ran back into the ocean full speed like a little kid. Hurdling the first few waves then diving head first over a large swell as if jumping over the pile at a goal line. I stayed swimming around another 10-15 minutes. It was perfect. 

Next day I had a day of diving at Poor Knights Islands which (according to some diving authority) is ranked as one of the top 10 dive sights in the WORLD. I had 2 great dives in the cool water and kelp covered ocean floor. I don’t really see how it’s top 10 in the world though to be honest. Maybe I’ve just been spoiled with the Great Barrier Reef and Mexican Riviera, but I give it a solid “meh”. Nonetheless it was a great day out on (under) the water. After my dive I drove up north a bit more to a small town where my tour of Cape Reinga picked up from. 

As our light hearted kiwi guide with the infectious laugh, on the old school tour bus, came on over the speaker he mentioned the AC only kinda half works and if it gets warm just open the window. By kinda half works he meant does not work at all. Come 11am the summer heat started pounding on me. Unfortunately I sat in between windows and was at the mercy of the lady in front of me if I were to get any air at all. Even more unfortunate was that she was advanced in years and like many her age LOVES the heat and cannot stand the cold. I convinced her to crack the window only to have her keep closing it on me whenever a little breeze messed up her grey thinning perm. I was in for a long day. The hot and uncomfortable trip did have some highlights including tobogganing down a massive sand dune, visiting the northern most tip of New Zealand where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea collide then returning down an unmarked beach road called 90 mile beach. The bus literally pulled right out on to the beach and flew down it for about an hour having to maintain speed limits and traffic laws as if it were pavement. Hot, sweaty and covered in sand from tobogganing when the full day tour was finally finished I had to make my way back down south and cover some ground to return my van the following day.

Because I was long overdue for a neck shave (the beard stays) and the combination of mosquito and/or camper van bed bugs had been eating me alive the last few days I decided to spend my first night in a room of my own since starting my travels. Half way back down to Auckland I stop in a little town, grab some groceries, a 6 pack of beer and search out a motel to call home for the night… You would have swore I had walked into the Rainman suite at Caesars by my reaction to what would have normally been a depressing studio motel room had it not been for my long stretch of shared dorm rooms with bunk beds over the past 6 weeks. OOH I get my own bathroom AND a QUEEN size bed!… there’s a table AND a fridge!… The TV has a retracting arm AND it SWINGS!!… And wait, not only is there wifi, but its FREE!! In hindsight its truly amazing how excited I was. Regardless it was a very welcomed night on my own. I watched some American Idol reruns, destroyed a BBQ free range chicken accompanied by some great local IPA, took 2 showers and did some much needed manscaping.

Bob