Matador Means Killer

Matador Means Killer-

When visiting Spain a few must do things come to mind; Sangria, tapas, paella, flamenco, and at the forefront; bull fighting. The glorification of the matador in pop culture created my long running desire to see a bull fight live someday. Similarly very high on my bucket list (like top 2) has always been the famed running of the bulls which takes place in the northern town of Pamplona every July. I even considered avoiding Spain entirely on this trip because of the timing and return to make the visit when it could coincide with this event. I’ve since given up on postponing destinations (barring civil unrest) and from Ireland the next logical choice, returning to mainland Europe, was Spain. Bull fighting is Spain’s baseball, hotdogs AND apple pie (flamenco is it’s Chevrolet). No visit to Spain is complete without it.

I’ve known this to be a controversial sport, but have dismissed that as the view of hardened animal rights activists who I’ve rarely shared opinions with anyway: My chicken does not need to be free range, I believe foie gras is the best thing to ever happen to a tastebud and if experimenting with mice helps cure diseases then Frankenstein the shit out of them little bastards. I mean sure I love dogs, cats are ok sometimes too, horses seem cool, and I agree that outright abuse and neglect of animals is clearly very wrong, but aren’t there more HUMAN concerns to occupy yourself with? Isn’t it something like 780 million people in the world that don’t have access to clean drinking water and 3.4 million people die every year from a water related disease? Wouldn’t THAT be a better cause to fight for then the spay or neuter your freekin’ pet campaign? This has been my secret (not so secret anymore) stance towards animal rights activists in general. I have no issue with hunting, so why would I have a problem with bull fighting? [That all being said, and in fairness to my own personal views as far as the animal kingdom is concerned, I believe there are dire issues that need addressing in relation to safeguarding our natural habitats, in particular regards to global deforestation and protection of our oceans. Also this opinion on activists excludes present company of course and if you’re taking the time to read this than I believe what ever you believe cause we’re homies]. At any rate I spell this out only to say I was opened minded enough going in and really didn’t think I’d have a too much of a problem with bull fighting, BUT you know where this is headed so let me paint you the picture…

A gate opens and the bull comes into the ring with 2 ribboned daggers already swinging from his neck. The perimeter of the ring is flanked with “toreros” (bull fighters) like rodeo clown decoys. These toreros are men all dressed like matadors, but only the most senior of the group is honored with the title “matador de toros” (killer of bulls). The toreros holding pink and yellow draperies are hidden behind wooden gates. Whenever a safe enough distance away they will come out into the ring to taunt the bull, but only far enough to run behind the safety of their gates. This is the first step in tiring out the bulls, then come the 2 horsemen into the ring. While the toreros continue to run the bull back and forth the horseman are positioned holding 10 foot long spears and riding atop blindfolded and cloaked horses. Twice the bull is lured over to the horseman and struck repeatedly into the back and shoulders with the long spears as it attempts to gouge and lift the horse with its horns. Now weakened, as well as tired, the bloodied bull continues it’s cat and mouse game with the toreros holding pink draperies. As it’s being distracted in come the hooks. Three times inserted, 2 at a time, for a total of 6 barbed hooks. These are the multicolored sticks you see swinging from the bulls back in the final stages. NOW in comes the matador de toros!… Let’s recap; two daggers in the neck before he even gets in the ring, ran back and forth by rodeo clowns to tire him out, jabbed with long spears by guys on top of horses, and 6 wooden sticks swinging from his back attached to the muscle by barbed hooks and NOW after all THAT, NOW comes the big hero to finish the job!? The matador gets the red cape and guides the bull back and forth through it several times. When the bull goes straight for the cape and lifts directly over head, as opposed to circling around the matador, the spattering of actual Spanish fans will yell OLÉ! The other 75% of the crowd which consists of Asian and US tourists say nothing and sit on their (our) hands.

The finale is the part that bothered me more than anything else; part of the spectacle and pageantry is the showmanship during this final stage. The matador bows his chest, opens his arms and summons the crowd for approval while walking away from the bull with his back turned. At other times during this bravado display the matador mocks the bull by sticking his crotch out and looking the bull directly in the eye in a “come and get it” type manner. For the bull this can be nothing else but literal insult to injury and completely contradicts arguments from proponents of the sport who suggest the entire event honors the bravery and pays respect to the animal. Finally the matador goes over to the ringside and exchanges his showman’s sword for one to finish the job. A few more times through the red cape and the matador lines up for the final blow. The entire length of the sword is thrust into the back of the bulls neck. The bull is in an immediate struggle for its life while violently spitting and coughing up the blood that pours from his mouth and nose, loosing balance and eventually falling over on its side, center ring in front of the entire crowd, kids and all, which were unbelievably plentiful in the arena. The bulls hind legs are then tied with rope and attached to the back of three horses that drag the dead body one more time around the ring, through the gate and out of sight.

So what then? Am I telling you to skip this “must do” if you make it to Spain? Maybe. You might want to. Personally though I don’t regret this experience. It’s something that’s going on, something that is a deeply ingrained part of their culture and if you could stomach it you may want should see it. I couldn’t stay to watch the whole thing and left 1/3 of the way through. (Each match consists of 6 fights and we left after the second.) I only spell out the facts of what happens and will at the very least say I do not understand it… At all. My personal opinion is that it’s a gruesome blood sport and cowardly act that belongs back in the prehistoric time where it was conceived. As for the running of the bulls in Pamplona, it’s officially the first thing to ever make its way off my bucket list.

Bob